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OUR REVIEW
Steeped in tradition
The Amalfi Coast, the Mediterranean jewel par excellence, is formed by the breathtaking limestone cliffs of the Lattari mountains that sink into the sea. It is a fascinating place with all its colours, landscapes and small beaches enclosed by the cliffs captured within its inebriating scents. Above all, it will cast a spell over you with the quality of its light: clear, magical and unreal.
Positano, located within the “Divina Costiera, is an ancient seafaring hamlet with a handful of small white, yellow and pink houses nestling on steep hills that punctuate this tiny piece of wonderful coast. Viewed from the San Pietro Hotel it is an unforgettable show. When the day begins to fade away and the lights of the village start to shine, the whole place is transformed into a fairytale landscape and one can feel the magic all around.
A network of narrow alleys, small stairways and arches slope downwards to the beach and the sea. There is a succession of little shops selling various types of sandals, linen kaftans, floral handbags, large straw hats, pictures, and a greengrocers’ where you will find the most fantastic “premute” (freshly squeezed fruit juices).
The colourful, naïve and cheerful ceramics depict a type of life where man wants for nothing, where nature is wonderful, miraculous and astonishingly plentiful; they are hand decorated using colours that mirror the hues of the sky, the sun, the sea, the dawns and the sunsets, summers and winters of this stunning coast. These skilful ceramic painters express themselves by expertly applying delicate colours to pottery, floor tiles, vases and variously shaped handicraft, telling a tale of this land and its simplicity. Animals in the courtyards, fish and fishermen, lemons and citrus fruit leaves captured forever on the ceramics so that this small, simple and respectable world will never be forgotten.
Positano is a romantic village where the setting sun illuminates the stunning landscape and the clear, blue sea with its turquoise hues that change with the currents. You will be captivated by the majestic beauty of these panoramas as you drive along the narrow winding road that leads to your destination.
The San Pietro Hotel nestles on the top of the promontory next to Positano, it is surrounded by the wild and magnificent natural beauty of this fabulous coastline.
The hotel is a very private and exclusive place, the product of the imagination of a brilliant mind who then transformed it into reality having carved it out of the ragged cliffs of this unique coast.
A place of great class – luxurious, but without excess. A very refined “casa” with terraced gardens overlooking rocks that fall steeply into the sea, that has attracted, and still attracts, writers, artists, important politicians, industrial magnates and celebrities, such as Zeffirelli, Carla Fracci, Dustin Hoffman, Barbara Streisand, to name but a few.
It is a very elegant place exuding a cordial and warm atmosphere, typical of Italian hospitality. The hotel demands experienced management, which is expertly provided by the owner, Mr. Vito Cinque, a gentleman who perfectly fits the San Pietro image: class, confidentiality and elegance but never overdone.
The large communal halls are decorated with pale colours and furnished in the classic “Campania” style, opening out onto balconies, gardens and terraces pervaded by the scent of lemons.
Enjoy the panoramic view sitting on comfortable sofas, armchairs and a large semicircular seat in front of the large windows: the evening will be a show of thousands of little lights that sparkle amongst the colourful little houses.
Inside high-class furniture, statues and pictorial decorations by the Neapolitan artist, Ugo Passalacqua provide the furnishings of this evocative place, where coloured bougainvillaea filter through from the outside into some of the halls and decorate parts of the ceilings.
The beautiful large glass doors give the guest the opportunity to admire both Positano on one side, Praiano on the other, and the never ending sea that melts into the sky.
The central terrace is dominated by a spectacular lemon tree bearing fruits that look like a myriad of sparkling lamps in amongst dark green leaves. A carpet of flowers spreads all around the base of the tree and complements the yellow colour of the fruits.
San Pietro was born in the 1970s from what was initially a villa on the slopes of the promontory, which was subsequently transformed into what is now room 23.
From this small nucleus, room 23, the hotel came to life as a jewel. From then on it developed little by little inside this hidden and luxuriant natural environment that is barely visible from the road, but from where one can clearly see the small and ancient Chapel dedicated to the Saint.
In the room from which all began, a large wall mirror hanging behind the bed dominates the space, alongside a beautiful and imposing “specchiera” framed by golden curls carved into the wood. The room has a balcony around it with flower pots and a large wrought iron table intricately decorated, as are the white armchairs, the swing-seat and wooden loungers where one can relax away from the hustle and bustle of the rest of the world, whilst admiring the sea and sky melting together. The eyes span the horizon as far as the Faraglioni in Capri and then get lost in the infinity of the sea; the silence is interrupted only by the slight noise of the waves breaking against the cliff in the small private cove down below: a magical place! The impression one gets from this environment is one of being in the middle of the sea but completely surrounded by gardens full of cascading bluebells, hibiscus, olive trees, nasturtiums and lemons.
All of the bedrooms are large and imposing and, have beige, antique light and dark pink majolica floors matching the colours of the walls and the warm ivory coloured linen. The marble bathrooms with large hydro massage bathtub offer carefully chosen courtesy sets and the wall closets have wooden clothes hangers with a long stick to make easy work of hanging clothes. Every room is different from the others but all show an infinite care in every detail, for example, all the doors (including those of the wardrobe) are decorated by two famous German painters: Ursula Kluth and Michele Theile.
The restaurant also provides the guest with a beautiful view from its large panoramic glass doors looking out to the sea; the décor is classical and simple, and the piano player will accompany you throughout dinner with a pleasant musical background from a bygone era.
This is a place that greatly values tradition in the kitchen as well as everywhere else.
Kind and affable waiters will be at your disposal and will be able to advise you on the menu choices. The tables are set with beautifully coloured, hand painted ceramic plates, all different, and with equally beautiful crystal long-stemmed wine glasses, and rotund water ones.
An appetiser of exquisite and fragrant pizza cooked in the open wood fired oven will initiate your dinner and rest assured a pizza like this is not easily found. The dishes are made up of simple and regional, traditional recipes, all prepared with local prime ingredients. The Menu ranges from the “Tartare di ricciola” with orange couscous, to the freshly cooked seafood salad, through to the “paccheri” with sea snails, patellas, little tomatoes and chili peppers and then to a plate full of scampi, clams and squid specially arranged to resemble a shell.
Not to be missed are the spaghetti “alla Positano” with little tomatoes, basil and parmesan cheese, simple but splendidly arranged on a large fiery red ceramic plate: I bet you have never tasted spaghetti this good before!
The wine list is equally interesting, giving a particular attention to the local production. Two suggestions: the Fiano of Avellino, very interesting, and the Fior d’Uva, fuller bodied, produced on the Amalfi coast. Ottimo.
And then on to the desserts: the coffee ice-cream by Gianni, strawberries with cannelloni filled with lemon cream, bufala yogurt with crunchy meringue. And to finish off, tiny babas with chantilly cream and topped by a strawberry centre, tartufo and coconut marshmallow. These are really delicious desserts for the sweet lovers, that you can choose to be accompanied by a fragrant Moscato Rosato of the Trentino Alto Adige and an excellent Traminer.
The coffee by Gianni is special: intense, creamy with an incense and fruity aroma, sweet and spicy.
You cannot leave the table without first tasting the delicious Limoncello made by the lady of the house.
You will awaken in your room surrounded by colours and scents, and an excellent à la carte breakfast will be waiting for you. You will be served directly at your table with a warm and fragrant basket of bred, all home made, with small brioches, jams and freshly squeezed orange and grapefruit juice. Then you will be able to choose between scrambled eggs (very fresh) with bacon, salumi, cheeses, fresh fruit salad, cereals, butter, tea or herb-tea and a fantastic natural or malt bufala yogurt, a must! Finally a cup of the unmissable Caffé dell’Amico Gianni.
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