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OUR REVIEW
An enchanting corner of Tuscany.
The scenery in Val d' Orcia is a mixture of soft and harmonious hills punctuated by vineyards and row after row of silver olive trees. The landscape is full of tranquil, gently sloping hills - a spectacle where the light, silence, the vast landscape and beauty of nature cannot fail to move you. Indeed it fascinated the great Sienese painters of the Renaissance, the European “grand-tourists” and also English, German and French romantic novelists. This is the real heart of Tuscany.
The castle can be seen from far away, as it sits on a hill dominating the magnificent panorama of the Siena countryside. As you approach Castello Banfi, the road will take you through gentle, green hills until you come to a left turn, here, after the first bend, those arriving in late autumn will be enveloped by a cloud of golden leaves - these are the castle vineyards. They will accompany you all the way to the cypress-lined avenue that leads up to the main entrance.
The castle is built entirely in stone and in addition to being a haven for guests is also a working farm. Just outside the estate there is a small hamlet that once housed the peasants who worked here. The houses have now been transformed into magnificent and elegant suites, all varying in colour and size, and boasting wonderful “sale da bagno”. The décor is all terracotta, wooden beams, travertino, ceramics and splendid raw textiles. In the corner of the dressing room you will find a bar stocked with a carefully chosen selection of mineral waters and sweet and savoury delicacies. When you enter your room you will be greeted with a bottle of Brunello di Montalcino, a pair of crystal glasses and chocolate covered grapes, all beautifully laid out, so that you can toast your arrival in style. The castle is full of surprises. An atmosphere of peace and tranquillity surrounds the guest in this small and exclusive hamlet. A reading area is located in the former stables and its beautiful cross-vaulted ceiling supports the halls of the castle above. It is custom to spend a little time in the library in front of the fire, chatting, or reading one of the beautiful books. A cup of tea, an aperitif or a fine wine – all excellently served – makes for a relaxing and enjoyable break in the afternoon. The outside courtyard, small and snug, is very welcoming, with a delicate background of classical music and the scent of the mandarin trees that accompany you all the way to the entrance of the Museo del Vetro. Here you will find, amongst the many items on show, an interesting exhibition of history, culture and splendid glassware that includes transparent cut crystal and blown glass from Murano and a wonderful collection of significant wine and champagne bottles, and also some intriguing water jugs once used by Queen Mary Antoinette. The Museum is host to distinctive pieces from the 1600’s to the present day, and on the first floor, some interesting archaeological finds such as the 1st century BC ampoules, storage jars and much more besides.
Your day will seem to fly by in this enchanted place, and before you realise, it is time for dinner.
The Michelin starred Gourmet Restaurant is worthy of a chapter all by itself!
Dinner is served in a room whose walls are decorated with beautiful depictions of the vines that surround the estate. You will be served by an expert Maître d’ who is also an excellent sommelier - a young, refined person who is at the same time highly knowledgeable and cordial. He manages both the kitchen and the dining hall together with the experienced young Executive Chef: they are perfectly attuned and produce an exquisite menu coupled with a highly efficient atmosphere.
The cuisine is superb with beautifully presented dishes as is the “mise en place” of the tables and dining hall - a pleasure rarely found on one’s travels . The dining hall is elegant and refined, but at the same time, warm and welcoming. The five round tables in each of the two rooms are dressed with long simple sage-green table cloths covered by beautiful white linen.
When you are ready for dessert, the waiter will come to replace the napkin with a smaller tea-scented one, still warm from the iron. The plate sets are elegant, the silver cutlery are unfussy, but high quality and tasteful. All of the glasses are beautiful, especially those for grappa!
The wines also deserve a whole chapter for themselves. To say “ottimi” is to understate their quality. The Fontanelle stands out in the white selection, whilst the red Tavernelle 2006 is rotund and harmonious. Remember to taste one of the most famous wine in the world: the Brunello di Montalcino of their own production. And then, the Cuvée Aurosa Rosé Alta Langa DOC – a rose’ wine whose colour and scent resembles a “Rosolio”, though interestingly full bodied and with a very light perlage – the bouquet immediately gives a rose perfume followed by the scent of a multitude of flowers. It is such a delight that you will feel duty bound to finish it all!
The golden bream “tortelli” and dried tomatoes in a light pesto sauce are exquisite, as are the “ Pici” with veal sauce and the cauliflower with garlic and chilli pepper. Do not miss the pigeon with “topinambur” star-aniseed sauce and the delicately flavoured violet layered potatoes, before finally reaching the desserts. The unusual rosemary flower Creme brulĕ with mandarin crushed ice drink, green-fruit salad or the plate full of chocolates decorated with a gold leaf that are truly scrumptious - a real sin…..
And all of it served by an expert, white-gloved waiter.
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